Ahhh, the venerable Moccasym. This simple shoe has been helping climbers scalp the Custer’s of crags across the land for far longer than I’ve been climbing, and many a review can be found, yet I think another is in order.
The Moc is an ultra-simple, sensitive slipper-style climbing shoe by Five Ten, which features their famously sticky Stealth C4 rubber and is about as versatile as a climbing shoe can be, and it serves as the only arrow in many young braves’ shoe quivers. The Moc is a favorite at Stoney Point, where the blazing red can be seen adorning the feet of old guys eliminating holds and young guys looking for new ones.
I wore my Mocs on everything until both toes were worn through to the leather, and even in an impressively dilapidated state, the shoe performed. The Moc is at its best in thin cracks and on overhanging boulders, where the sensitivity and the low-profile toe allow for extremely precise footwork.
On sizing: In my opinion the Moc performs at its best when sized down A LOT. I wore mine two full sizes down from street, the first week or so was torture, but after breaking in the Mocs become the bane of any rock wishing to chuck you off. With the right fit even micro edges, normally the forte of a stiffer shoe, are no problem for this shoe. So my advice is to size ‘em tight! For bouldering and single pitch sport, I’d say get the smallest size you can get your foot into, for longer climbs maybe go a half to full size up from there.
Moc’s, buy ‘em!
Pros: Versatile, comfy, easy on/off, durable, and they look fuckin’ rad
Cons: They will pop off on hard heel hooks and can get sloppy if sized improperly
Note: Moccasym= Moccasin+Asymmetrical.
ReplyDeleteNot Xan+Stupid.
Sweet. I'm thinking I might go barter that S220 LT Harness for a pair of these to replace my miuras and complement the blackwings.
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