Monday, June 27, 2011

Five Ten Quantum Review

Oh, rock shoes; how I love thee and all your various derivations, from down-turned sickness to board-lasted stiffness, there is one of you for every conceivable application. This spring saw the introduction of tons of sick new shoes from nearly every manufacturer, and Five Ten is at the front of the pack with rad new ish in every category, from the wild looking Anasazi high top to the gnarly Hornet. I recently got my hands on a pair of their new sticky icky purple, the Quantum, and while I have only had ‘em for a month or so, initial impression is that they kill!
             
The Quantum is a pretty low volume down-turned lace-up shoe featuring Stealth Onyxx rubber; it is essentially a down-turned Anasazi lace. The fit on these things is spectacular, particularly the heel, which cups the heel far better than the dragon, despite being lower volume. The shoe appears quite down-turned out of the box but they flatten out with the foot inside, and smearing is excellent. The toe is super precise, finding and sticking to any little pocket you like. So far, I have primarily climbed ‘em on pocketed Breccia, and they excel in this regard. I have taken them on a couple edge-intensive climbs and here they are money as well, the down-turn provides enough stiffness for frontpointing without sacrificing sensitivity.
             
So far, I love these shoes, they are comfortable, precise, and seem durable, though I will check back in with that info after a few more months of climbing. Also, call me shallow, but I kinda care about how my shoes look, and I am a big fan of purple shoes; I am stoked that I’ll no longer get the sideways stares when I have to ask to try a pair of Elektra’s (also a solid shoe, incidentally). Kudos to Five Ten for coming out with such badass kicks, I am stoked to continue climbing ‘em and will let ya’ll know how they hold up over the months. Keep the mind state Golden, Peace!
Pro’s: Purple like my drank homie, surgeon-like precision, fit-wise and on the rock, versatile, comfortable.
Con’s: Not sure yet, synthetic so maybe they’ll get stinky? Perhaps more after a few months
Got specific questions? Drop 'em in the comment box and I'll do my best to give ya what yer lookin' for

4 comments:

  1. UPDATE: I recently took these up to Tahquitz rock and they performed great on the multi-pitch granite cracks and slabs up there. I had them on for nearly three hours at one point and while I was quite relieved to have them off at the top I definitely could have handled more. If I were buying them as a dedicated long route/slab shoe I would probably get them up another half size (I have them in 9.5 and they are comfier than I am used to. For reference I wear a 7.5 Moc, which fits super tight and a nine dragon, also super tight.)

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  2. How does the sizing of the Quantums compare to the Hornets?

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    1. Hi Vee, thanks for checking out the review. In comparing the quantums to the hornets I would probably fit them pretty similarly. I have only tried on the hornets once, but based on that I would size them the same. Additionally, I measure at 8.5 on the brannock device and am very happy with the 9.5 quantums for sport and single pitch trad. If I were getting them as a bouldering shoe, I would probably go down to a nine, or as a multi-pitch hard trad/crack shoe, up to a ten. The smallest I would recommend getting these is your street shoe size. They have not stretched at all after a year of use, and even one full size up from my measured size they are plenty snug. Hope this helps, Best, Xanimal

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  3. Thanks for your reply. I've gone and ordered a pair a half size smaller than my hornets, based on Rock and Run's sizing guide (http://info.rockrun.com/articles/rock-shoe-sizing-guide.html). Let's hope they're not too tight :-/. If anyone does use the 'measuring device' they have, I find I need to go up 1 full size.

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