Friday, February 25, 2011

A Day With the Jack and the Rainy Queen

Its raining in LA today, but Chris and I are working on a semi-secret project (more on this in the hopefully near future) and we figured today would be a good day to get some photos:

burn baby burn. a car fire on Topanga across from Stoney 9AM

Chris feels things out while Jack keeps watch

Working out the moves on one of many Crankie Queenie variations












 This is Chris working out another start to the graffiti-ridden Queenie, a cluster of problems that with slightly different conditions would be far more classic. An unfortunate thing about urban bouldering is areas being robbed of many classics.

           


It was my first day back at Stoney since I fell and it felt nice being out there, rain and all. Thinking over possible sequences on Crankie Queenie with Chris reminded me of what I love about climbing.

On Stoney and rain:
Like any sandstone/conglomerate type stone, the rock at Stoney is highly vulnerable to rain and as such should be avoided for at least 3-4 days after a good soaking. This is the disclaimer but as a mad climbing addict I know that asking this is nigh impossible. While I wholeheartedly sympathize with those that simply cannot wait to get back on the rock it is frustrating watching classic problems rapidly erode. The wet season thus far has been particularly brutal on Stoney, with classic problems like Crowd Pleaser v2 losing key holds, and it is irritating because it can be easily avoided. Stoney offers many options for rainy-day climbing so you can avoid the gym and the destruction of classic problems. Tuna is the obvious choice, but the backside of jamrock stays dry too and for those willing to explore many other options exist. So help Stoney stay strong and keep off the plastic this winter!

1 comment:

  1. I don't mean project in the climbing project sense, something closer to an art project.

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